Here you will find guidance on planting and general care for roses. As always, if you have a specific question, contact us! HERE

 

Here are some frequently asked questions:

 

Guidance on planting

choosing the right rose for your needs

bareroot planting

container planting

transplanting roses

 

Propagation Techniques

 

Back ground on Fertilizers:

What your roses really need?

What are they?

When and how to fertilize?

 

Basic Maintenance

Pruning Roses

Deadheading Roses

Rose Care for the Winter Months

 

How to Spray Roses

Common Rose Chemical Application Guide

 

Choosing the right rose for your needs-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Check the recommended roses list HERE

PLANTING YOUR NEW BAREROOT ROSES- Taken from: http://www.marinrose.org/planting.html

by Nanette Londeree, Master Rosarian

 

Getting your new rose bush off to a great start takes a little preparation and thought. You’ve probably spent $15 or more on a bareroot rose and you’ll want to protect that investment with proper care and maintenance. Time to remember the old adage about planting your 50 cent plant in a five dollar hole (adjusted for inflation, of course) – invest the time and energy in planting your rose, and you’ll reap the benefits. The things to consider in planting your new rose –

  • Preparing the site
  • Preparing the rose
  • Planting the rose
  • Care after planting
  • Preparing the site

 

Location, location, location – one of the key things about good roses is growing the plant in a place that gets plenty of sun, is protected from the wind, and has adequate space to spread out. Go for full sun – roses are sun lovers and need a minimum of 5 – 6 hours of sun each day to produce abundant flowers. Inadequate sunlight, either the intensity or duration, can cause a rosebush to struggle, producing lankier stems, fewer leaves and flowers. This weakens the plant and makes it more susceptible to pests and disease. Morning sun is best, as it helps dry moisture on the leaves early, and is less intense that hot afternoon sun.

 

Choose a site to protect the rose from wind if you are in an open area like a hill top, ridge top or other open area that gets a lot of wind. Wind can cause the rosebush to dry out very quickly, and can result in damage to new, tender canes. You also don’t want to plant a rose under or too close to a tree since most trees have big, greedy roots systems and will compete with the rose for water and nutrients.

 

Allow adequate space around the plant – while the little bareroot plant you are putting in the ground may not look like much today, given the right environment, it is likely to grow into a good sized plant, so provide space accordingly. You want to have good air circulation around the plant to reduce the potential for disease.

 

Check that the planting site has adequate drainage. You can test this by digging your planting hole, filling it up with water, and determining how long it takes to drain. As much as roses love water, they do not like to sit in it. If you do not have good drainage, modify the soil with sand to facilitate drainage.

 

Roses are incredibly tough plants and it is possible to grow roses in soil that is less than ideal. If you really want your roses to perform, build up the quality of your soil. Just like the saying that “you are what you eat,” rose plants will reflect the quality of soil they are grown in. Good soil has lots of organic matter in it (30 – 50%). Organic material helps hold moisture longer and provides nutrition. Marin tends to have lots of clay (tiny particles that stick together) so be generous with your amendments. The organic amendment that you add can be your homemade or purchased compost, redwood soil conditioner, peat moss, or similar materials; though be cautious when using fresh manures as they can burn tender new roots.

 

If you are planting a new rose in a hole that you have taken another rose from, it is a good idea to dig out the old soil and replace it with new – keep about one-third of the old soil and remove two-thirds – replacing it with soil from some other place in your garden, or purchased soil. If you use sterile soil, mix with some existing garden soil since the sterile soil will not contain any microorganisms – the little machines that keep the soil healthy.

 

Preparing the rose

 

Now that you have your planting site ready, you should attend to that little bundle of sticks otherwise known as your bareroot rose. After unpacking your rose, inspect it and remove all broken roots, weak or damaged stems. Once you have completed your trimming, it is beneficial to immerse the entire plant in a water-filled container (add about a cup of household bleach / five gallons of water) for up to 24-hours. This both rehydrates the plant including the canes, and helps reduce unwanted microbes that may have been transported with the plant.

 

Planting the rose

 

Add your amended soil to the planting hole to form a cone. Look at the rose and decide how best to orient the rose – for example, if there are more healthy canes on one side than the other, you may want to have the “best side” facing the direction where it is most visible. Place the plant on top of the cone at the level you want the plant at. Should one plant high or low? In Marin, it is generally recommended that you plant so that the bottom of the bud union is above natural soil level (up to three inches above natural grade) so that by the end of the first year the plant will have settled so that the bottom of the bud union is nearly at grade. This also allows for an adequate depth to add mulch. Once you have the right placement, continue to add your amended soil to completely fill the planting hole, then water well to saturate the soil around the plant. Finally, tamp the soil lightly; then let it settle to its final height naturally.

 

Care after planting

 

After planting it is important that you provide adequate moisture to the rose. When planted at this time of the year, Mother Nature usually does as adequate job with steady rainfall. If not, keep the rose well watered since most bareroot plants have a tendency to produce substantial top growth even though there may be no root system to support the growth. Unless the plant is kept moist, the top growth will be checked to permit the roots to catch up. If that happens, the plant will go into decline and may never grow with great vigor.

 

Once in the ground it is beneficial to mound soil, compost or mulch high up around the base of the plant to keep the bud union moist and protected from unnecessary loss of moisture from drying winds and warm temperatures. Keep the mulch on for four to six weeks to give the rose the best chance of getting established. After the six weeks, carefully remove the mulch, stand back and watch that new rose perform!

 

 

Planting a Container Rose - taken from: http://www.rosesolutions.net/how_to_plant.html

 

  • Dig a hole wider and deeper than the container.
  • Make certain the container rose has been watered and the water has drained from the container. This hydrates the rose and makes it easier for the root ball to remain intact.
  • Remove the rose from the container. If the plant cannot easily be lifted out, first cut out the bottom of the container. Then make a vertical cut down the side of the container and place the container in the hole. Remove the rest of the container from around the rose and out of the hole.
  • Take half the soil removed from the hole and mix with an equal amount of organic material. (Compost, aged manure, seaweed, etc.) Mix prior to backfilling.
  • Add a cup of lime and a cup of superphosphate (0-22-0) or bonemeal, half into the planting hole and the rest mixed into the amended soil.
  • Prune away any broken roots and trim extra long roots just enough to fit into the hole.
  • Place the rose in the hole, spreading out its roots. Make sure the bud union will be two inches below the finished soil level.
  • Partially fill in the hole with amended soil and add water. Let drain.
  • Add more soil, water in again and drain. Do NOT tamp down with foot or shovel. By “mudding in” the rose, air pockets are eliminated and the plant is left in a moist environment in which to re-establish itself.
  • Finish backfilling the hole with the amended soil and water again.
  • If planting in the early spring, hill up the canes 12 inches or so with soil or mulch to prevent moisture loss on windy days. As the weather warms and the rose shows signs of new growth, push the mound away and water frequently. Build a well with soil a few inches high around the base of the rose as a reservoir to hold water.
  • Attach a plastic label with the name of the rose around a sturdy cane. The metal labels that come attached to the rose may fall off.
  • Consider investing in quality rose labels for years of trouble free identification.

 

 

 

Transplanting Roses - taken from: http://www.rosesolutions.net/how_to_plant.html

 

  • Roses are best transplanted when dormant - in Rhode Island that means from mid-November through mid-March.
  • Prune the bush back by half, tie the canes together if necessary, and water well the day before you plan to transplant.
  • Pre-dig the new hole and amend before digging up the bush to be transplanted. (See Planting a Bare-Root Rose.)
  • Loosen the soil 12 inches out from the crown with a shovel, creating a root ball. A larger plant may require a larger root ball. Dig all around the bush, loosening the soil with the shovel. Carefully insert the shovel under the root ball and remove it with as large a root ball as possible.
  • Follow steps for planting a bare-root rose as directed above. Be sure to water in well.
  • Keep the rose well-watered for two weeks or longer.

Propagation Techniques -

 

Making It Grow - How to Cross Pollinate Roses - Take from https://www.scetv.org/blog/making-it-grow/2017/how-cross-pollinate-roses

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clemson Extension Agent Jonathan Windham shows us how to cross-pollinate roses to create your very own hybrids with a process that takes about 10 steps and only a few minutes!

 

1. Select one plant to be the mother and one plant to be the father.

 

2. Collect anthers from the father plant and dry overnight to release pollen grains.

 

3. Select a flower bud on the mother plant. The sepals should be split enough to just see the color of the petals beneath.

 

4. Remove the sepals and petals from the flower bud.

 

5. Emasculate the flower bud by cutting away the stamens (the stamens are filaments + anthers. The filaments are the stalks that the anthers sit on).

 

6. Place pollen from the father plant onto the stigmas of the mother plant (the stigmas are in the center of the flower).

 

7. Label your cross using the formula mother name x father name (the mother plant always comes first when writing out lineages).

 

8. If the cross was successful, a hip will form.

Note: Pollination and fertilization are two separate events in plant breeding. Pollination just means pollen was applied to the stigmas, fertilization means that sperm and egg successfully united.

 

9. Harvest the hip when it’s ripe (it will be red, orange, or yellow) and remove the seeds.

 

10. Place seeds in a Ziploc bag with some slightly moist potting soil and store in fridge through the winter.

 

11. Plant seeds in spring and enjoy being surprised by your new rose hybrid!

 

Fun fact: The “seeds” that are in the hip of a rose are technically “achenes” and not seeds at all, but most people just describe them as seeds.

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